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Hi all,

Being a stamp person I haven't had anything to do with coins - until now. I have acquired a stamp collection that has a couple of pounds of world coins in it, and am wondering how to best dispense with it. I know Australia has a 'Renniks' catalog, but since I am dealing with a worldwide lot of coin is there a worldwide catalog (like S.G has for stamps), or should I just sell them off in a bulk lot per pound ?

Any suggestion would be appreciated !

Thanks,

Darrin.

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Visit my Website - http://WWW.DJMSTAMPS.COM for Australia & World Stamps, Collections and Accessories

I guess it sort of depends what sort of coins we are talking about..

Many lots of coins are whats called "Holiday money" the stuff people have in their pockets that they bring home with them from world trips.Nearly ALL of that material can be classed as 10 cent coins.

But if they are Older and Better Values,they can go up market to the 50c or $1.00. boxes,

However, if you have Old Queen Victorian High Values, in Siver and Gold.then you will need some better advice than whats been given here.

As to Catalogues,try your local Liberary. and look for WORLD COINS catalogue.a bit like S.G.

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Nunawading Stamp Fair
Last Sunday of Every Month - Jaycees Hall Silver Grove - Nunawading.

Thank you Mr Boggler

I'm yet to pick the lot up but I get the feeling that most of it is 'holiday money'. Hopefully there'll be something worthwhile in it !

Darrin.

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Visit my Website - http://WWW.DJMSTAMPS.COM for Australia & World Stamps, Collections and Accessories

There are books, but they're very expensive.

They are written by Chester Krausse.

About $140.00 each.

There a few styles though, coins minted from 1901 to the present and another for coins minted 1800 to 1900.

But there are lots of proper values listed via Google.

DJM.
This is my left over box. My grandsons tell me there is 106 countries represented in these coins and notes. I've never counted them. However a friend of mine that knows a little of coins tells me that the good ones are likely to be the Russian.



Huanga.

Having tipped the above box out, I thought I might as well look in another box I have. Its certainly not holiday money. This is some of what I found.



1 Geo.V gold half sovereign. 2 US silver dollars dated 1875 and 1900, the later is not in as good condition as the 1875 and has a X scratched onto the face. I wonder why?

The forth coin is a Maria Theresia silver taler. Up until the 50s these were the main form of currency throughout Southern Arabia, especially amoung the tribes of the Yemen. Although dated 1780 this one would have been minted long after that date.

Huanga.

@DJM You could also post up some pictures so we can get feeling about this lot of yours I can help with value for many European countries

The dollar cannot be dated 1875, as they were first minted in 1878; if it IS dated 1875, it's a Chinese counterfeit.

I have all the Krause world coin catalogs, 2011 volumes, and will look items up, within reason. I would need the date, plus a good scan, plus the major wording spelled out.

You can make a very good scan of a coin with an ordinary cheapo scanner; use a scanning area of about 2x2 inches, set for 600dpi. Most resulting scans need to be brightened into a more legible color/tone. The image below has been brightened just a tad too much, but it's good enough to identify and allow proper grading.

If you will scan 25 coins at a time, in rows 5 by 5, close together with date side showing, I can tell you which ones are worth providing the details. PREVIEW repeatedly to make sure that the scans are clear, sharp, and not too over- or under-exposed. Make your scan area about 6 x 6 inches, not the full page.

I sell junk and holiday foreign coins, 50 for US $7, plus postage. No silver, of course.

Doug, I must need my eyes testing again. Up to now I had no great interest in coins, however your post had me take another look. The first $ is 1879...not 1875 as I first thought.

The second one has this very intriguing cross scratched onto the face. I doubt I ever shall know the story of why its there, but there has to be a story there!



Huanga.

Mod Comment

I have moved this thread to the more appropriate Forum

Norm

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Geelong, VFA Premiers 1878, 1879, 1800, 1882, 1883, 1884, 1886, AFL Premiers 1925, 1931, 1937, 1951, 1952, 1963, 2007, 2009, 2011, .

Perhaps the 1900 dollar is a fake, thus the X.
Any coins worth a bit surely shouldn't be bouncing around in a bunch in a box but put into their little pockets that they make?

PS If you find a denarius from the 1st century, let me know.

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Greg - Looking for Goulburn Australia Cancels and Grangemouth Scotland Cancels and Covers
Member of the S.T.A.M.P Club for Slightly Twisted And Mad Philatelists - Motto: "Bring back the lick!"

Both the dollars are genuine; the 1900 is worth only bullion value, based on its 0.773 Troy ounce of silver. The 1879, depending on mintmark (if any, reverse, under the eagle) worth somewhat more, i.e., some collector-value.

In Australia, as a curiosity, the 1900 might bring a premium above its silver value, but in the U.S., I would sell it along with the rest of the 1940s and 1950s dimes and quarters, etc.

Thanks Doug. A quick search of Google tells me the 1879 was minted in Philadelphia, has no mint mark, and is quite common. The well used 1900 has the mint mark 'o' indicating it was minted in New Orleans.

Huanga.

There are two varieties of 1900-O; a plain mint mark, and the "O" struck over "CC" for Carson City. The overstruck mint mark is worth about 3x the normal; not a big deal, but enough to bring your X'd coin out of the bulk silver category. A 10-power glass should illustrate the strike-over if you have one.

Doug. The reverse. All I seem to have here is the single 'o'. If I am reading the Google spill correctly. The fine condition for its age on the 1879 coin, is supposed to be due to the none release from the mint for a long long time?



Huanga.

Actually that is a bit below average for a bank release, as the breast feathers on the eagle are worn smooth; I don't think any 1879's came from banks or the Mint.

Most of the dollars released by the Mint around 1961-2 were "O" mints in brilliant uncirculated condition that had been stored 60 to 70 years, never circulated.

At the time, I talked my Dad into taking $1000 out of the family savings account (!!!!) to buy silver dollars. I told him I'd make up any lost interest (3% x $1000 = $30/year) LOL LOL. We were lucky, and among our coins were some 1892-O dollars which I sold 10 years later for around $12 each. The number of 1892-O's released was believed to be less than 3,000 coins, while some dates numbered a hundred thousand or more, throwing the rare coin market into chaos; for instance, the 1904-O was a VERY rare date until they released 15,000 of them, and the price went down 90% in a week.

Even 50 years later, the price still has not recovered; you can buy a nice 1904-O for $50 to $75, far less than its brothers, the 1904 Philadelphia and the 1904 San Francisco.

And that price for a silver coin already containing 0.77 ounce of silver; do the math.

Actually the 'o' is actually a 'D' which stands for Denver Mint.

The quickest way to tell a forgery is to weigh it. These forged coins only have a small amount of silver in them.

Also when you drop these coins together they should make the familiar 'ker-ching' noise found in all silver coins. If they make a dull noise they are forgeries.

And another way is to apply a magnet to the coins. If they are magnetic then they are definitely forged.

The surest way is to melt them.

If the blob is mostly silver you are fine.

Mostly alloy and you have a fishing sinker.

WIN-WIN.

Hold on here, coin folks.

"Actually the 'o' is actually a 'D' which stands for Denver Mint."

Morgan/Liberty Head silver dollars (1878 to 1921; none minted 1905 to 1920) were only struck ONE year at the Denver mint, that year being 1921.

The "O" mint mark (for New Orleans) was used from 1879 to 1904, inclusive.

Not to mention the shipping costs, given the size and weight of these tomes.

Alternatively, in case anyone is considering these, in my opinion there are two more cost-effective solutions:

1. A few years ago Krause made available a set of 4 or 5 of the volumes on DVD. It's no longer produced, but you might get lucky on eBay.

(the following is the method I use)

2. A subscription to Krause's "VIP Club". For US$39.98 per year you get access to ALL of the Krause world coin catalogs (7 volumes) online with search and wantlist features. Also, since it is an online database and not simply PDFs of the catalogs, it is updated in real time. You also get a year's subscription (52 issues) to the digital version of Numismatic News. It's U.S.-centric, but consider it a freebie. U.S. buyers would also get 52 printed issues included, but that's not relevant here.

http://www.shopnumismaster.com/product/ ... b/us-coins

It says that it is only available to U.S. residents, but since you're only interested in the digital information anyway, just throw it a phoney U.S. physical address. All you care about are the login codes.

I've been using it in lieu of the printed catalogs (which I have a shelf full of and have been selling/giving away) for about 2 years now.

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www.revenue-collector.com - Member APS, ARA
Click here to see my U.S. revenue wantlist.

Yes I agree about using a USA address but I use a real one.

1 Pennsylvania Ave
Washington DC

Does it look familiar?

It's the White House. Never gets checked.

Umm, "1 Pennsylvania Avenue" is a hot-dog cart, favored by Secret Service agents.

The White House, favored by wanna-be's, is located at 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue.

Damn I always get those two confused. Either way it works.

I had forgotten about the Krause VIP Club, since I like catalogs-in-hand. But it's a great idea for overseas collectors; share the cost with a buddy.

Only folks with access to Krause, one way or another, learn that the 1924 Netherlands 1c is the rare date, or that the 1923 Canada 1c is the rare date, or that the 1958-J German 5 Mark is the rare date, and someday this knowledge will pay off, big-time.